![]() |
I owe this modification to Steve Bedair. I never did find my pictures of my original build, but someone asked me to build them one, so I took pictures as I did it. I still see that I wish I had taken more pictures. I hope to add some information about this modification because I found that doing this with an RF30 mill-drill presented some difficulties not presented with the mini-mill. Such as maintaining your xy position when changing between short and long tools. I actually did part of the modification this time on my HF12x36 lathe because I was in the middle of converting my 9x20 to cnc but it is just as easily accomplished on the 9x20 (which is what I used originally). |
![]() |
The Main Shaft. Cut a piece of 1" stock 4.625" plus enough to face the ends. Turn one end to 0.625" diameter for a length of 2.625" |
![]() |
Mount piece in vise on mill and cross drill with a 5/16" drill. |
![]() |
Then using a 5/16" endmill and turning the piece in the vise, plunge the mill through to from an x-shaped hole that will allow the cam to rotate with the bolt through it. You may have to finish up with a little filing. |
![]() |
Then mount the 1" portion of the shaft in the vise with the cam flat on the upper surface and the bolt slot approximately centered left and right. This will allow the camlock handle to have an arc with vertical as the center of the arc. |
![]() |
Next we will construct the lever. (This first step is only necessary if you use something other than 3/4" Drill rod.) Cut a piece of 3/4" stock 5 1/2" plus facing length. Mount the piece in a 3 jaw chuck with about 3" extending from the chuck and take a finishing cut for 2.25". |
![]() |
If you did the step above, flip the piece end for end in the chuck. Mount the piece in a 3 jaw chuck leaving about 1 1/2" extended from the chuck. Center drill this end for the live-center. While I had it mounted in this fashion, I turned the end down for 0.500" to a 0.375 diameter. Turn about another 0.500" length to about 0.550" diameter (neither dimension is critical). A simpler way is to turn 1" length down to 0.550" diameter and the turn the end 0.500" length down to 0.375" diameter. |
![]() |
Now go ahead and thread the end 3/8"x16. I used a parting tool to cut a clear area for threading tool withdrawal. |
![]() |
Next step is to turn the lower part of the handle to about 0.500" diameter (the dimension isn't critical here but it is a good opportunity to practice your precision). I beveled the end of the shaft above the threads to ease its entry into the pocket on the main shaft. So slide the shaft out of the three jaw until only about 1" to 1 1/2" remain in the chuck. Use the live center to support the center-drilled end of the shaft. Turn the shaft to 0.500" diameter for a length of 2.50" (including the portion that you earlier turned to 0.550"). |
![]() |
Then you need to turn a taper between the 0.500" portion of the lever and the 0.750" portion. I turned a 4:1 for 0.500". Doing it on cnc is real easy. I cut the taper in the same step as turning down the lower part of the shaft to 0.500". Manually I had to flip the lever end for end again and use the compound to cut the taper. |
![]() |
The next to final step on building the parts. Mount the lever in a 3 jaw chuck leaving about 1" extended from the chuck. Turn a 0.375" radius on the end of the handle. |
![]() |
The final step is to bore the hole through the tailstock housing. I clamped the housing to my mill table and used a 5/8" endmill to cut the radius for the end of the shaft. You are cutting a 5/8" radius in the boss where the original washer and nut tightened. Otherwise there won't be enough clearance on top of the shaft for the new washer and nut. Next I center drilled the 5/8 land that I created at the back. Then I drilled through the back of the casting with various sizes of bits finishing up with a 19/32" drill. Finally I used an adjustable reamer to get a good fit on the main shaft. |
![]() |
Anyway here is the completed project. |